Fuji S12-S LTD Road Bike
When I began my adult bicycling adventure several years ago, I doubted that I would ever ride a road bike. I wanted to ride an upright styled bike, with cruiser handlebars. I did not want to ride a bike that required me to hunch over some noodle-bars and stare at the ground as I attempted to…what?
Get somewhere really fast? As my Daddy used to say: leave in time, and take your time. Of course, he was talking about automobiles. Regardless, I have changed my tune about that issue, and I have begun to be obsessed with a little more speed. As my bicycling stamina has increased and I have begun to contemplate longer rides I have begun to realize, too, that it will simply take way more time than I have available to accomplish my missions. Thus began my search for a suitable, vintage road bike. Something inexpensive, but well-made. I have purchased numerous road-bikes at garage sales, as well as on Craigslist, but none have hit the mark. Until now:
I found this Fuji at a thrift store in East Dallas for $45.00.
It is a remarkably light-weight, steel framed bike. Fuji Double-Butted Chromoly 331 steel tubing, Sachs-Huret Derailleurs, Suntour components:
The pictures that you are seeing were taken before I even cleaned it up or put tires on it. Cool “Mount Fuji” headbadge”:
So I made the decision to put some money into the bike. I went to my local LBS and had some nice (although relatively inexpensive) tires put on the bike, Continental Ultra Gatorskin tires:
Continental Ultra Gatorskin Tires
Fuji S12-S LTD
Aluminum Kinesis 6061 fork
I’ve been really happy with the bike on the couple of long rides that I’ve taken it on. It’s an 18 speed with index shifting, and it shifts like a Swiss watch.
As far as I can tell, this bike was manufactured in approximately 1978-1980. I love the look of it, and it rides beautifully. The only thing that is not original to the bike are the front forks, shown above. They are Kinesis 6061 Forks made of aluminum on the bottom and steel on the top part that goes into the headtube. I like the look of them, but I kind of wish that I had the original forks to contrast the two.
Here are a few more pic with the Brooks B-17 saddle that I just scored off (where else) CL for $65.00:
And a close-up:
And please take a look at the lovely Shimano brake calipers:
In my opinion, nothing completes the look of a bike like a leather saddle, which usually means a Brooks. I have to decide if I want this Fuji to be my keeper road bike. This bike fits me, it’s fast and it has the vintage look and styling that I like. If this bike doesn’t satisfy me, I’m guessing that I’m not cut out for road bikes. If it is the bike for me, then I’m going to completely dissassemble it and rebuild and regrease its’ 30 some odd years old parts. So far, with the tires and some cable tweaking, I have a little over $200 in the bike. If I rebuild it, I’ll have to have my LBS do a bit more adjusting once I’m done. But I sure couldn’t find something new and comparable for the price. Thus the beauty of the Hunt. And I love vintage bikes. Hell, I’m getting pretty vintage myself.
I’ll keep you posted.
-Hubbard
Hubbard, you need a course on bicycle mechanics – if you want one, just email me and I’ll be happy to show you the ropes. It will save you a ton of $$ over taking the bike to the shop.
Justin,
I can do most of the work, but the cables are difficult for me, and a few other technical things. But I’d be glad to take you up on the offer.
-Hubbard
Dial it in for you and keep it baby. You hear more about French or Italian but Japanese bikes in that era were the best. Japan Inc was simply the world leader in steel by that time and you can feel it. You will want to get a flatter stem as you get experience, but no need to rush it.
Thanks, Sleepy Head! I appreciate your input, but I’m curious about a “flatter stem”. Can you tell me more?
And Justin, email me!
-Hubbard
What is your email?
I agree – Japanese bikes of this era (even the no-name bikes) are some of the best values out there.
J
Never mind about the stem. I didn’t have my glasses on.
Hubbard,recommend you take that fork off and hang it on the wall. Just as you wouldn’t ride w/out a helmet, invest in a decent steel fork and be able to sleep well at night.Lots of folks have been seriously injured by the sudden failure of alluminum forks. Love the bike, hate the fork.
Fred,
Thanks for the input. Where do you recommend that I find such a fork that would match the bike? I posted on bikeforums.net looking for one, but it seems like a long shot. I’m not sure how to determine whether a particular fork will work for my bike. Any input from anyone would be helpful. The bike is black, so it seems like it wouldn’t be too hard to find a match. Ideally, it would have chrome forks to match the rear drop-outs.
-Hubbard
Do what Fred said… no serious injuries, please!
The only bad alumnum forks are Viscount forks, mostly because they had an aluminum steer tube, which is where the failures occurred. That Kinesis fork is an upgrade over the original (the equivalent of putting a carbon fork on an aluminum bike today). It is newer than the bike, and as such, you should have no worries. If you want to replace the fork, you can go on eBay and buy a nice chromed fork and have it cut and threaded at the local shop – however, you could be looking at upwards of $100 for the whole process, and it really isn’t needed. The other problem would be finding a fork sized for 27″ wheels.
I thought I posted this already, but I wouldn’t worry about the fork. Yes, early aluminum forks were supposedly prone to sudden failure, but the problem was separation of aluminum steerer from the aluminum forks – this has a steel steering tube, and is an upgrade to the bike – sort of like putting a carbon fork on an aluminum frame today. This fork is newer than the bike, and is a good thing.
If it really worries you, there are plenty of nice chromed steel road forks on ebay – but by the time you get one and have the steere cut and threaded you might end up another $100+ into the bike – you might find a cheaper pre threaded fork, but you would have to take measurements etc. and still take the chance of it not fitting.
Justin you used a different email address in your previous post, one that had not previously been approved, so it had to be manually approved before you’d see it posted.
- Chris
Hey Michael, I don’t know how much you know about your Fuji yet, but I have a 1986 Fuji Palisade that I bought at a Lake Highlands garage sale a couple of years ago and I found that http://classicfuji.com/index.html is a great resource. I was about to decode my serial # and find the scanned catalog page for my bike. You have a good looking bike.
Sorry Michael, I got distracted during the Lost finale recap. I was trying to say that I was “able” to decode my serial # and find the original catalog page.
Kevin:
You’re the man! The bottom bracket was the only place that I had not looked for a serial number. According to the link that you provided, my bike was manufactured in February of 1982.
Thanks!
Say……you don’t happen to have an extra fork, do you?
-Hubbard
Hubbard, measure the length of the frame head tube then add about 1.5 inches for threads (or get a threadless fork & stem). A compelling reason to change is that you have lost the fastening point for a front rack or fender. Your bike was designed as a tourer.
When you have the head tube #s send them to me and I’ll see what I can find for you. Should cost less than $30 for the whole project. Fred
Will do Fred! I want fenders!
Frame head-tube: 7 inches, plus 1.5 equals 8.5 inches.
Fred, if you can find me a good black or chrome etc. steel fork for this bike, I am going to make you famous!
You’re a good man, regardless, Sir!
-Hubbard
How much would you sell this for? I have one and I am trying to buy a new road bike because I am really getting into it.
My S12-S is still rolling strong. Bought it in U.S. in 1981, rode it in Australia for the first 2 years, in the Outback no less. All 4 of my kids have been passengers on it, the oldest is now 24 and rode it himself this past summer. I cannot believe how even now it sits on the road like an arrow. Ultimately it will be the bike I take across the U.S. — the only thing left on my bucket list. Hoping to do so in the next 2 years. Expect a blog when I do. Go Fuji S12-S fans.
I have a similar bike that I bought new in upstate NY in 1977 or 1978. I upgraded components and wheels soon after I got it. I love the bike and am starting to ride it again. I think I paid $300. for it back then and had to save up for it.
Nice find!
Still ride my 1981 S12-S LTD 100 mi/wk. Bought in new when I was 15 y.o. and still love it. Replaced/re-greased parts as needed, but it’s been a great bike for the past 30 yrs. Been thinking of a Trek carbon fiber…some day. Glad you are enjoying it as much as the fellow who bought it new probably did!